I met up w Vicki, Bonnie and Ju at Vicki’s house. As a new member of the Amigas they gave me the nickname Bubbles. Reminded me of the Powerpuff girls Bubbles is the one in Blue.
Anyway, back to the surf session. Ju was unable to surf as she had a tooth pulled that morning and didn’t want to risk infection. So I went out w Vicki aka Crash to Jack’s where the waves were mackin’ – well, at least my eyes :=). Bonnie was also at Jack’s but she went off to catch that inside left that Greg loves. Crash stuck with me to start fine tuning me away from my bad habits and give me tips like how to keep from pearling, an alternative to turtling when waves come crashing down on you… all really helpful :). When we first got out at around 1pm, there were huge 10 wave sets (well huge to me – maybe head high but not my head). I got caught in a bunch and would have to wait a while before I could even paddle back out. Vicki knew everyone like Ju knew everyone at the point. She also knew where to sit and would place me in the perfect spot to catch a wave without much paddling. After it became apparent that I was struggling w the larger waves, Vicki moved me inside to catch smaller ones. I caught a bunch of waves though half was kneeling and other half was squatting. Spent 3 hours out there was so tired that had little energy to paddle back. Later Ju said she forgot to tell me that Vicki can stay out there almost indefinitely and that I could’ve come in earlier. An aside: So Vicki had a Mane and Tail shampoo and conditioner for horses in her outside shower. My hair felt great afterwards. I gotta get me some!
Got up at 6AM to meet Ju at the Point. It was cold and dark when I got there about 6:45am. The tide was high, so not the best time to be out there but since we were up we decided to go in. I opted not to wear my booties and bare-footed it to the stairs. Ouch…even with all that tough skin on my feet walking barefoot still hurts :). Ju said at high tide waves at the Point tend to be choppy due to the ‘fix’ on the cliffs causing incoming waves to bounce back. When we got in, I was surprised that the water felt relatively warm considering it was a cold morning. There was a grom contest going on where tiny kids were ripping it up on their lil chip boards at first peak so everyone else was relegated to 2nd peak. I was nervous as the Point has a reputation, deserved or not, as having agro, aggressive surfers. People seemed friendly and nice but Ju said a lot of the good surfers were not there due to the surf contest. I met her friend, L(?) who is a school teacher, Mark and Daniel. Anyway, it’s definitely a faster wave at the Point and more difficult to maneuver when choppy. They also seemed big to me – maybe shoulder high (not my shoulder :). I did catch one wave but stayed on my belly as it was a bigger wave than I expected and the ride was super choppy. We were out for an hour and half and came in as the swell was dying and we were getting cold.
4/5/18 New longboard for me a 9 foot Michel Junod, we call it the ‘banana board’ …It replaces Greg’s brand new epoxy Stewart Redline that I broke …that hangs right now on our living room wall.
